Wednesday, March 10, 2010

Leveling with you on Class C RVs

Class C RVs are very popular and come in a variety of styles, from massive toy haulers to sleek little habitats with Euro styling. The smaller units are easy to drive and handy to have in state parks and National Forest campgrounds because they easily fit into small campsites. When you're finished camping they're easy to store. Today you can drive through any neighborhood in North America and see Class C RVs parked in driveways (unless there is an ordinance prohibiting RV parking).

In general, Class C RVs are less expensive than Class A motorhomes and easier to work on. For instance, I have a Class A motorhome that doesn't have a spare tire. I don't have the space to carry a spare or the tools necessary to change a tire of this size anyway, so I'm forced to rely on roadside service. If you're mechanically inclined, you can easily maintain a Class C by doing your own brake jobs, engine work, tire rotation, and all the other standard maintenance you'd normally do on your own vehicles.
On the negative side, on most Class C RVs you have to climb up over the cab to sleep, climb down into the cockpit to drive, and they can be tricky to level. My new Canadian friend Philip Snobelen recently purchased this Class C Itasca "Spirit" by Winnebago. This unit has two slide-outs on the driver side and requires extra support to make it more stable.Philip uses a combination of blocks and jacks to level and stabilize his coach. Once he has everything level, he supports the corners with auger jacks, placing a piece of plywood under the jack to increase the surface area for stability. Once these are in place Philip says, "You can dance a jig inside and it doesn't move much."
Unless you install an aftermarket leveling system, you'll be on your hands and knees doing this manually. Even with an automatic leveling system you still may have to do some manual leveling. Many RVers use graduated ramps and drive their RV onto the ramp until they achieve level. You can purchase the plastic models which, in my opinion, are garbage or you can make your own using scrap lumber. The homemade ramps are stronger and safer; the only problem is where to store them.

Leveling with you on all things RV - Jim Twamley, Professor of RVing

4 comments:

RoadAbode Crew said...

The Problem with Class C motorhomes is that after adding slideouts, your CCC is pretty low. I don't want to add to that with heavy board ramps or onboard leveling systems. I've used just the leveler "lego" type blocks - we keep two sets with us - and have had no problem leveling for our comfort and safety. As for the scissor or auger jacks, I'm going out in my RV to relax and recreate, not to build a permanent home base. I figure if setting up the outside stuff when I get somewhere takes more than 30 minutes, either I'm doing it wrong, or it's too much work. But I guess we all have our priorities.

Anonymous said...

I have a 08 Couchmen Concord Class C motorhome. 31 ft. 2 slides.
There is no overhead sleeper.I always had a Class A M/H.Now I am 75 and I perfer this smaller M/h.
It has lots of room and is easy for my Honey to drive. I made my own leveling woods.A penny saved is a penny earned.

Rae said...

I'm a solo 30-something year old full-timer and I find that class Cs fit my lifestyle better. I have a 31' model without slides with 1,500lbs of CCC, which is more than enough for me.

By sleeping over the cab, I am able to have a dedicated home office, something that makes my home feel three times as spacious as it is.

For leveling, I use wooden ramps that were made by the original owner. They make leveling very easy. Storing them isn't an issue; I have a large pass-through compartment at the front that is very short and the levelers stack in the lower section of it. I have plenty of room, so I don't begrudge them their space.

Used motorhomes said...

Most of the people prefer Class c rvs as they are cheaper then class a and it has got enough space to stay in...as you said it is easy to fix your class cs rvs as it can be done same way as you do it for your car not as complicated as calss a ...

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